How to Get That Healthy Skin Glow
Navigating skincare nowadays can be confusing and overwhelming if you are unfamiliar with the terminology used by the industry. But don't worry, we've got your back! We're breaking down chemical exfoliants and how to effectively and safely use them to get that healthy skin glow.
Everyone’s skin naturally goes through a 28-day cycle to shed dead skin. Many environmental factors can delay this process, including dry, cold air, stress, heat and face masks. Exfoliants remove dead skin from the outermost layer and accelerate skin cell turnover to reveal healthy, younger looking skin. Unlike chemical exfoliants, physical exfoliants use textured bits and grainy particles to manually dislodge dirt and strip away cells on the surface of the skin.
Since physical exfoliants can be a little harsh on the skin, chemical exfoliants have grown in popularity. Chemical exfoliation has grown in popularity because it can be just as effective and less harsh, according to Dr. Tiffany Jow Libby, MD and Dr. Shani Darden in Elle.
About Your Skin
The skin barrier is the outermost layer of our skin, and it defends our skin from pollutants, bacteria, toxic chemicals, free radicals and ultraviolet light from entering and harming the deeper layers of the skin. Without this layer, we wouldn’t have happy, healthy skin.
AHAs, BHAs & PHAs
Chemical exfoliants are similar to physical exfoliants, but instead of physically rubbing on the skin, acids are used to penetrate the skin to break down the build up of dead skin cells. Think of it as skin cells removing the glue that is holding it to your skin's surface.
There are three types of chemical exfoliants used in skincare: alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) and polyhydroxy acid (PHA).
“These chemical exfoliants work in two ways: by lifting off the build-up of dead cells on the skin's surface to reveal a brighter, smoother complexion or by penetrating into the pores to shift build-up and help clear breakouts,” says Harper's Bazaar UK’s Digital Beauty Director Bridget March and writer Roberta Schroeder.
PHAs are the mildest form of chemical exfoliants. They are water-soluble, meaning they can dissolve in water. They’re used to dissolve dirt and grime in the outermost skin layer. Since PHAs can’t penetrate deeply into the skin into our dermis layer, they are a good product for those who have very sensitive skin. Different types of PHAs include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
PHAs are suitable for all skin types because they are very gentle on the skin. Gluconolactone helps improve skin texture and hydrates, while lactobionic acid attracts and absorbs moisture either from the air or the skin, keeping the skin's surface hydrated.
AHA’s main purpose is to rejuvenate the skin. It works in the same way as PHAs, in that it does not penetrate the dermis layer as much, however, it reaches deeper into the skin than PHAs.
AHAs are derived from natural substances like fruit and milk. A very popular type of acid used in AHA’s is glycolic acid. You might have seen it in The Ordinary’s 7% Toning Solution. Other forms of AHAs are lactic acid (milk), malic acid (apples), mandelic acid (pears), citric acid (lemons) and tartaric acid (grapes). Unlike PHAs, AHAs might not be suitable for really sensitive skin.
The only non-water-soluble chemical exfoliant is BHA. BHAs are best used to unclog deep inside pores to reduce the amount of sebum, a.k.a. oil that skin produces, and minimize the appearance of clogged pores. BHAs are suitable for all skin types, but primarily oily and acne-prone skin since they can penetrate into oil and sweat glands in the skin.
BHAs are also known to help prevent breakouts. In terms of its molecular weight, BHA is the lightest, making it able to travel deeper into the skin barrier than other chemical exfoliants. Salicylic acid is a common BHA found in a lot of skincare products, such as the cult-favorite Paula’s Choice SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. Willowbark (Salix Alba), wintergreen leaves/ sweet birch bark extracts are other types of BHAs that can be found in skincare.
Chemical exfoliants can be found in a variety of skincare products, including toners, cleansers, face masks and serums. A few of my favorite chemical exfoliants are SOME BY MI’s Aha.Bha.Pha 30Days Miracle Toner, COSRX’s One Step Original Clear Pads, Glossier’s Solution and Krave Beauty’s Kale-Lalu-yAHA.
When using any type of exfoliant, especially chemical, it is best to use it in moderation because if it is overused, it can cause a chemical burn on your skin. It is recommended to use a chemical exfoliant about two to three times per week, preferably at night because exfoliating your skin will increase its photosensitivity to UV rays. If you choose to use it in the morning, use an adequate amount of sunscreen to protect your face.
Overall, it is most important to love your skin. Once you love your skin the way it currently is, that is when you’ll be glowing on the inside and out. Skincare shouldn't be for anyone else but yourself. Enjoy taking five minutes or an hour out of your morning to prep your skin for the day ahead. Use the time to self reflect on things you love and your day ahead. Attaining your skincare goals isn’t an overnight process. Take your time and reflect on your self-growth throughout this journey. You got this! Skincare should never feel like a chore. It should be something you enjoy doing.
Written by Oluwayinka Akindebe
Header photo by Anna Shevts via Pexels
